I went to Nelsonville Music Festival, produced by Stuart’s Opera House, the weekend of the ever-coinciding West Virginia Day and Summer Solstice. This year’s events were in memory of the legendary godfather of underground folk, Michael Hurley. 1
Friday, June 20th
After putting up a ten person tent for three people, my friends and I ventured into the heat of Mudville. Everywhere there were golf carts driven by young volunteers. “Can you take us to the media tent?” I asked one that looked like surfer Timothée Chalamet. “Sure, but where is that?” Before I could answer he cracked open his road beer. “This was a tip,” he said.
There were three stages at the grounds. From largest to smallest: Howard’s, Porch, and Creekside. Darrin Hacquard was at Creekside at 3:30 pm, so there we went. We passed teens in swimsuits completely drenched. “Is there somewhere to swim nearby?” I asked in earnest. “Yeah,” one says plainly, “there’s a creek.”
Under a secluded canopy of sycamores was Creekside, decorated with Hurley’s cartoon friends and imaginings. Darrin slinked onto the stage with his bandmates trailing. To my surprise, standing behind Darrin with an upright bass was John R. Miller. What a goddamn delight. They played my favorite song, “Louise.”
After convincing Brian (the stage manager) I had some serious business to attend to (“Tell Darrin it’s Lou from WTSQ. He’ll remember.”), I crossed the barrier to the “green room” tent. Chatted with Darrin. “Gotta go see my folks, good to see ya.” Shared some stories from Travelin’ Appalachian Revue days with John. “Ah man, was that before or after he was off the bottle?”
We took a break under the cover of the food tents. Being WV Day, my friends and I chatted about the Mountain State’s flora and fauna. “I wonder what the Ohio state bird is?” Looking to the guy on my left, I asked, “Hey, what’s the state bird of Ohio?” His friend across from him answered loftily, “The cardinal.” “Well that’s the state bird of West Virginia, so I don’t think it’s the state bird of Ohio.” (I had no idea.) “Pft, they’re prevalent,” he said. We chatted. I called the man on my left an idiot for some reason.
From there we went on to Porch to catch Merce Lemon. I got to chat with her and her bandmates. One of them frequents the coffee shop I used to work at in Pittsburgh. Thankfully he updated me on the gossip. “She still comes in when the owner isn't around, even though she’s banned.”
On Howard’s at 7:00pm was MJ Lenderman. Lordy, was he fantastic. Just as charmingly awkward and lanky as I’d imagine him to be. I read somewhere that his Manning Fireworks was for autumn 2024 what Charli XCX’s Brat was for summer. I tried my darndest to meet that man - Howard’s backstage proved more difficult to get into. Where was Brian when I needed him?
Waxahatchee was there to round out the night on Howard’s. Katie Crutchfield wore a red cropped long sleeve and matching pleated skirt with a camo trucker hat to complete the look. Her performance felt like a hug. I was thankful.
Saturday, June 21st
My friends and I started our morning slowly though the sweat came fast. The heatwave of the decade was set to begin and the air felt like God’s armpit. We went to the 10:30am sound bath anyway. If we couldn’t get a shower, we’d at least accept the sound bath and some rain sounds.
Thanks to a trusty teen volunteer with a golf cart, we made our way over to the stages. First stop was Porch to see Ohio’s very own Spencer Radcliffe & Everything. I liked his glass-half-empty-but-still-trucking-on lyrics. We stuck around Porch to relax and nap in the shade. At 3:00pm was Gardener, a band from Yellow Spring, OH. Their sonic, dreamy, Americana sound fit the summer heat well - I was quickly a fan. After their set, I got myself backstage to meet them. I walked up to the six-foot-something lead singer/guitarist. “Hey! I work for a radio station in Charleston, West Virginia and I was wondering…” then it hit me. “I called you an idiot yesterday, didn’t I?” It was the Ohio state bird guy. Mr. Prevalent walked up; He played the keys. “Oh, you!” Mr. Prevalent gave me a hug.
The rest of the day passed with a carelessness that reminded me of childhood. We caught the Cleveland, OH band PAL (they have a song called “WW2” that asks an insightful question: why do all boys like WW2?) and North Carolina band Watchhouse, formally known as Mandolin Orange.
Then, it was time. The performance I had been waiting a decade to see arrived: Bonnie Prince Billy, or Will Oldham. If interested in my lengthy admiration for this man, email me.
Arriving early at Creekside, I approached the stage. “Hey, Brian. I was wondering if you could ask Will Oldham if he’d do a station ID for me.” Skeptically, stage manager Brian said he’d ask Mr. Oldham’s manager. I admired Brian for the pride he took in his job. Five minutes later he returned and said, “Come on, make it quick.” Off to the “green room” tent. There, with his signature thick under eye glitter and chalkish black eyeliner, was Will Oldham. I introduced myself and expressed my personal appreciation of his life’s work. After chatting a bit (pinch me) I asked “My grandad was a coal miner, and of course I’ve seen Matewan.2 Can you tell me any stories from that time?” “Well, let’s see. We were rafting down the Gauley, that's what it’s called, isn’t it? I look down, and there before me I see James Earl Jones’ ass crack.”
His performance under the sycamores at dusk was ethereal. The world felt like a gossamer. I’ll remember it for the rest of my life.
Charley Crocket finished the night on Howard’s. He’s as close to a John Wayne type cowboy that I’ve ever seen.
Sunday June, 22nd
My friends and I packed up early to avoid the oppressive heat.
There’s always next year.
Until then, I’ll be listening to the discography of Micheal Hurley and studying up on state birds.
1. I was told by a DJ from Louisville’s WXOX that Hurley died peacefully in his sleep after his advertised final shows. He passed on my 28th birthday.
2. A seventeen year old Will Oldham plays the character of Danny Radnor, a young Freewill Baptist.